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L'eau, les fleuves et les rivières
Texte original extrait de la version en anglais.
El Acueducto del Rey
The GR-249 takes the visitor to the Acueducto and the Puente del Rey, dated back to 1726, a project which has never been completed but whose grand span is suggested by the arches and cutwaters made of limestone ashlars. Málaga, situated between the rivers Guadalmedina and Guadalhorce, has always had problems with water supply because of seasonal nature of the first river and turbid saline waters of the other. When Sierra de Mijas was being divided, the part of the mountains which was assigned to Malaga city had a major water spring. When the spring was selected to supply water to the city it earned the name Fuente del Rey (King´s Spring). The aqueduct has never materialised due to the death of the architect who was the project developer and because of political and economic problems. The city focused its attention somewhere else and concentrated its efforts on the Acueducto de San Telmo, another hydraulic construction work of undeniable interest.
The Puente del Rey had another equally or even more important purpose for the province capital which was connecting the big city with the area of Alhaurín which has always served as a granary for Málaga. The construction has been known as Los Arcos de Zapata but the second, most important function, earned it the name of Puente del Rey (King´s Bridge).
As far as the Fuente del Rey natural spring this is situated behind the old quarters of Guardia Civil de Churriana, in an enclosed area. Currently it is not used but forms part of the past (which could have gone differently) and it is a superb historical element infallibly connected to the unfi nished aqueduct.
El Canal de la margen derecha
El Valle del Guadalhorce enjoys an enviable climate and a fertile soil thanks to the seasonal flooding of the terraced fields. Next to climate and soil, the agriculture triangle is made complete by water. The Guadalhorce is a river which carries a substantial volume of water and so seasonal irrigation channele, the “asequías, or the improvised re-directed channels were of no use. Not until the 70´s of the last century the so called Plan Guadalhorce was carried out, the river was regulated by the two reservoirs, Embalses del Chorro, and two large channels were constructed.
The one which is of interest here is the Canal de la Margen Derecha. It runs in a pipe in some sections, and in some it is excavated in the ground with added concrete walls; this great acequia runs along the final part of the valley reaching Alhaurín de la Torre. Channelled waters, logically, are at first destined consumption and only then for agriculture, especially when droughts occur seasonally. The worst affected areas are upstream furthest away from the water source. These are the areas which the GR helps you discover, practically the last stretch before the coast. This is the reason why there are small water stations on each plot of land from where water is pumped from the Guadalhorce aquifer, eliminating this way the necessity for the tricky business of so-called surface (or flood) irrigation.
You will cross the Canal Secundario de la Margen Derecha at the very start, close to El Peñón de Zapata, even before you reach the first kilometre of the walk. Further up at km 1.6, it appears again, with its many sluice gates, and then it disappears underground. The channel reaches as far as Churriana.
El Río Guadalhorce
El Río Guadalhorce has kept the Gran Senda de Málaga company from its headwaters close to Stage 12 Villanueva del Rosario-Archidona and then from the stage 19 to 22 where it reaches the area of reservoirs. Now, as if symbolically, they both reach their end.
The big river has been undergoing modifications of its course and its appearance since for ever, due to its double facet as a creator but also a destroyer of life. The collective memory of Málaga inhabitants is full of images of the periodical flooding of the city outskirts. Perhaps this is more of a case of having chosen the wrong location for settling, rather than the result of “nature´s fury”. Whilst nearby and upstream the river maintains the spectacular riparian thickets of tall trees, this is not the case along its final stretch where the absence of trees is striking. The Tamarisk and the White poplar have lasted the longest struggling against the housing estates, retaining quite dense little forests. Other plants which are much more resistant to the current itself and can withstand the pressure of the main riverbed, form carpets which create refuge for the numerous species of fauna: reed beds, clumps of bulrushes and rushes.
The river normally remains somewhat far from the path but there are many occasions where, if you like, you can rich the lower terraces of the terrain and then the river bank. The fish population and aquatic fauna are quite healthy despite of the turbulent waters which are also this river´s characteristic feature. Moreover, the river´s closeness to the sea encourages more biodiversity with the arrival of species tolerant of saline waters.
El Paraje Natural Desembocadura del Guadalhorce
La Red de Espacios Naturales Protegidos (Network op Protected Areas) of Andalucía was enriched by adding this small site of 67 hectares which harbours a outstanding ecosystem, a small delta, like an island within and island, which encompasses a series of lagoons and isolated river bends. In reality the area is more influenced by humans than one might imagine as the lagoons are actually old gravel pits where sands and gravels used to be extracted. This does not seem to bother the large number of visiting water fowl which sometimes establish permanently in the lagoons.The beach, completely free of human activities, is no less interesting.
About 1.5 km long, it stretches between the two branches of the mouth of the river. Such isolation as it is achieved here is doubly important for the breeding coastal species of birds, especially given the continuous interference the birds suffer during that natural process along the major part of the coast.
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Faune
Oiseaux
La zone de Zapata est fortement marquée par son caractère agricole, par la proximité du fleuve Guadalhorce et de l’aéroport. Dès le début de l’étape nous traverserons des zones maraîchères et de vergers, qui deviennent de véritables oasis pour les oiseaux durant les périodes de migrations et où les canaux d’irrigation jouent un rôle important pour la faune durant les périodes d’étiage. Nous nous retrouverons bien vite devant le fleuve Guadalhorce, où, en plus d’observer de nombreuses espèces aquatiques, nous pourrons également voir d’autres oiseaux qui fréquentent la zone à la recherche d’eau et de nourriture. Peu après avoir traversé le fleuve Guadalhorce nous commencerons l’étape en entrant dans la ville de Malaga, où dominent les espèces typiquement urbaines.
Espèces singulières
Dans cette étape nous passerons par la zone de la province de Malaga, qui compte le plus grand nombre d’espèces d’oiseaux : il s’agit de la partie inférieure de la rivière Guadalhorce. Au début de l’étape nous pourrons observer des espèces liées à l’environnement humain comme la tourterelle turque, le martinet pale, l’hirondelle rustique, l’hirondelle des fenêtres, l’étourneau unicolore et le moineau domestique. Dès que nous continuons dans les zones de culture avec des canaux d’irrigation et et des zones arborées, on pourra observer différentes espèces de hérons (le héron cendré, l’aigrette garzette et le héron garde-bœufs), la tourterelle des bois, le guêpier d’Europe, la huppe fasciée et les passeriformes typiques de cette environnement ( le cochevis huppé, la bergeronnette grise, la bergeronnette des ruisseaux, le pipit farlouse, le saxicola torquatus, le rouge gorge-familier, le rossignol philomèle, la gorge-bleu à miroir, le merle, la grive musicienne, la bouscarle de Cetti, la cisticole des joncs, la fauvette mélanocéphale, la fauvette à tête noire, le pouillot véloce, le gobe-mouche gris, la mésange charbonnière, la pie-grièche à tête rousse, le loriot d’Europe, le choucas des tours, le pinsons des arbres, le chardonneret élégant, le verdier d’Europe, le serin cini, le tarin des aulnes et le bruant proyer).
Bien que les extensions des cultures se réduisent de façon progressive et imparable, il s’agit d’un environnement où l’on peut trouver des oiseaux durant les périodes migratoires. C’est dans les zones où on cultive la luzerne que peuvent apparaître des espèces peu fréquentes comme le phragmite aquatique ou la locustelle luscinioïde. Si nous faisons le trajet en fin d’après-midi ou très tôt le matin, nous aurons l’occasion de voir la chevêche d’Athéna, la chouette effraie et l’engoulevent à collier roux.
Une fois arrivés au tronçon de l’étape qui longe la rivière Guadalhorce, nous pourrons observer le grand cormoran, le bihoreau gris, le héron cendré, le héron garde-bœufs, l’aigrette garzette, le fuligule milouin, la buse variable, le balbuzard pêcheur, l’aigle botté, le faucon crécerelle, le perdrix rouge, la caille des blès, la foulque macroule, la gallinule poule-d’eau, l’oedicnème criard, le pluvieux petit-gravelot, le chevalier guignette, le chevalier cul-blanc, le goéland leucophée, le puffin fuligineux, la mouette rieuse, la tourterelle turque, la conure veuve, le martin pêcheur d’Europe et l’hirondelle rousseline, entres autres.
Dans l’environnement de l’embouchure du fleuve Guadalhorce nous pourrons observer à courte distance le grand cormoran, le héron cendré, l’aigle botté, le faucon crécerelle, le choucas des tours ainsi que les goélands déjà cités antérieurement. Une fois que nous aurons passé le pont du fleuve Guadalhorce nous entrerons dans la ville même, et la diversité des espèces aura diminué. Mais les d’espèces présentes peuvent atteindre une densité très élevée. En raison des terrains vagues existants nous verrons encore des vautours et des fringillidés (chardonneret élégant, verdier d’Europe et le serin cini) mais ce seront le goéland leucophée, le goéland brun, la mouette rieuse, la tourterelle turque, le pigeon biset, le martinet noir, le martinet pale, la conure veuve, l’étourneau unicolore, l’étourneau sansonnet et le moineau domestique les plus fréquentes. Les grandes cheminées qui marquent la fin de l’étape et aussi de la Gran Senda, méritent d’être contemplées car elles accueillent habituellement des faucons pèlerins.
